Monday, October 02, 2006
Sunday, October 01, 2006
Among the problems with the militarization of police
is the same problem when mistakes happen in regular policing: all to often the officers and agency involved basically stonewall. No apology, no "We screwed up", basically pay for property damage- if they can't get around it- and continue on.
What brought this on was looking over at The Agitator earlier today. This particular section is on
SWAT-type raids on either the wrong address, or due to bad information from an informant. Get a chance, go read through it. It'll really, really piss you off. Both the idiocy of some of these raids('economic in nature' for God's sake), and the amount of money going into armored cars and APCs for law enforcement agencies.
It's bad enough when there's only property damage. How the hell do you tell kids to trust the police when, in a botched raid, they kill the dog? Or, using a SWAT team to arrest a guy on gambling charges, you kill him through negligence? And then cover it up with "A mistake was made" or "Normal procedures for a raid were used, so no charges will be filed"?
More of the cops that don't like this crap any more than we do need to start speaking out about this and doing what they can, because every time one of these idiocies happens, it makes their job that much harder.
What brought this on was looking over at The Agitator earlier today. This particular section is on
SWAT-type raids on either the wrong address, or due to bad information from an informant. Get a chance, go read through it. It'll really, really piss you off. Both the idiocy of some of these raids('economic in nature' for God's sake), and the amount of money going into armored cars and APCs for law enforcement agencies.
It's bad enough when there's only property damage. How the hell do you tell kids to trust the police when, in a botched raid, they kill the dog? Or, using a SWAT team to arrest a guy on gambling charges, you kill him through negligence? And then cover it up with "A mistake was made" or "Normal procedures for a raid were used, so no charges will be filed"?
More of the cops that don't like this crap any more than we do need to start speaking out about this and doing what they can, because every time one of these idiocies happens, it makes their job that much harder.
Saturday, September 30, 2006
Basic update: it's almost over
In a few days my son graduates from Basic Training. They've apparently done all the basic for those who are ready to graduate, and a few are trying to make up enough to graduate now; some others will have to stay over and do it again.
This past week was some various live fire practices, building clearing, etc. I think I'll call this one "Avon Calling"
In a few days I'll be heading to lovely Fort Sill to attend. Looks like the boy's done good.
This past week was some various live fire practices, building clearing, etc. I think I'll call this one "Avon Calling"
In a few days I'll be heading to lovely Fort Sill to attend. Looks like the boy's done good.
Friday, September 29, 2006
About the current spitting match
If you've been reading Michelle Malkin or Dean Esmay you'll know what I'm talking about. Short version, Esmay accused Malkin of calling all muslims the enemy and Malkin told Esmay he's an idiot(no, I'm not linking to them, you can find it if you want to wade through it.
I read some of the stuff at Esmays' place this started from, and it's kind of unnerving. I used to read his posts almost every day; in the beginning time kept me from going there as often as before and then the increasingly, I'd have to call it shrill, words and attitude toward most anyone who disagreed with his view on muslims made me stop going almost completely. At this point I doubt I'll go back at all.
Place called Classical Values has this I'll link because I think it's a very damn good piece on the subject. Simply, there are muslims out there who are in the truest sense the enemy. Period. The open enemy is not the problem in this; the problem is all the muslims who, whether out of "I won't criticize another muslim" or being scared to speak up or, in the case of all too many for comfort, secretly hope the enemy wins and destroys the west. These last are too chickenshit to openly say it so they make excuses for the murderering fascists they don't have the balls to openly be; and they make it that much harder for a lot of people to have faith in the (some say mythical) moderate muslims who like living in western society, who like being part of a free country, who hate the idea of the fascists taking over.
Here's the enemy, the open want's-us-dead enemy:
The Gaza imam said the only Christian-Muslim dialogue that is acceptable is one in which "all religions agree to convert to Islam."
Makes it plain, doesn't he?
How about this one?
A leading Muslim spokesman in Germany explained that he was all for free speech, as long as it didn't offend Muslims. The Germans' all-too-typical appeasement of terrorism no doubt makes them "safer" and "creates" fewer terrorists.
There's been far too much of this crap; this "We can call you anything, but if you offend us in any way we'll riot and burn and kill you" attitude from far too damn many muslims. It makes them the enemy: both the open enemy who strikes at us and the secret enemy who stays in the shadows and assists the open enemy.
I don't give a rats ass how you worship or who you worship. As Thomas Jefferson put it, "It matters not whether my neighbor worships one God or twenty; it neither breaks my leg or picks my pocket". But when their method of worship starts breaking legs and picking pockets and killing people...
I read some of the stuff at Esmays' place this started from, and it's kind of unnerving. I used to read his posts almost every day; in the beginning time kept me from going there as often as before and then the increasingly, I'd have to call it shrill, words and attitude toward most anyone who disagreed with his view on muslims made me stop going almost completely. At this point I doubt I'll go back at all.
Place called Classical Values has this I'll link because I think it's a very damn good piece on the subject. Simply, there are muslims out there who are in the truest sense the enemy. Period. The open enemy is not the problem in this; the problem is all the muslims who, whether out of "I won't criticize another muslim" or being scared to speak up or, in the case of all too many for comfort, secretly hope the enemy wins and destroys the west. These last are too chickenshit to openly say it so they make excuses for the murderering fascists they don't have the balls to openly be; and they make it that much harder for a lot of people to have faith in the (some say mythical) moderate muslims who like living in western society, who like being part of a free country, who hate the idea of the fascists taking over.
Here's the enemy, the open want's-us-dead enemy:
The Gaza imam said the only Christian-Muslim dialogue that is acceptable is one in which "all religions agree to convert to Islam."
Makes it plain, doesn't he?
How about this one?
A leading Muslim spokesman in Germany explained that he was all for free speech, as long as it didn't offend Muslims. The Germans' all-too-typical appeasement of terrorism no doubt makes them "safer" and "creates" fewer terrorists.
There's been far too much of this crap; this "We can call you anything, but if you offend us in any way we'll riot and burn and kill you" attitude from far too damn many muslims. It makes them the enemy: both the open enemy who strikes at us and the secret enemy who stays in the shadows and assists the open enemy.
I don't give a rats ass how you worship or who you worship. As Thomas Jefferson put it, "It matters not whether my neighbor worships one God or twenty; it neither breaks my leg or picks my pocket". But when their method of worship starts breaking legs and picking pockets and killing people...
The squirrels are revolting!
In more ways than one
MOUNTAIN VIEW, Calif. -- An aggressive squirrel pounced on a 4-year-old boy in an attack last week in Cuesta Park in Mountain View, Calif.
Ok, a couple of weeks ago it was racoons whacking cats; now the squirrels are getting nasty.
as many as six people have been bitten or scratched by squirrels since May, and that the attacks have become more ferocious in the last month.
Mind you, the little bastards can bite the tax reform act out of you, clawing the while. But have no fear, the standard responses are up:
Officials say they'll trap and kill the nasties, and
Wildlife advocates also oppose the unusual measure of killing the animals and said it won't solve the problem.
"The squirrels will be back," South Bay wildlife rehabilitator Norma Campbell said. "For every one you take out, two more will come in. It could be a never-ending project that isn't going to accomplish anything."
Two back for every one? Sounds to me like a way to feed the homeless.
MOUNTAIN VIEW, Calif. -- An aggressive squirrel pounced on a 4-year-old boy in an attack last week in Cuesta Park in Mountain View, Calif.
Ok, a couple of weeks ago it was racoons whacking cats; now the squirrels are getting nasty.
as many as six people have been bitten or scratched by squirrels since May, and that the attacks have become more ferocious in the last month.
Mind you, the little bastards can bite the tax reform act out of you, clawing the while. But have no fear, the standard responses are up:
Officials say they'll trap and kill the nasties, and
Wildlife advocates also oppose the unusual measure of killing the animals and said it won't solve the problem.
"The squirrels will be back," South Bay wildlife rehabilitator Norma Campbell said. "For every one you take out, two more will come in. It could be a never-ending project that isn't going to accomplish anything."
Two back for every one? Sounds to me like a way to feed the homeless.
About the lack of forging posts,
sorry 'bout that. Reasons are time(I could always throw something else out and make some time) and physical problems. Specifically, my elbow. I've got a persistant problem, possibly caused/aggravated by lots and lots of heavy hammering over time.
Which really sucks. The stuff I most like to make, namely blades, requires lots of hammering for the bigger ones. On some, depending on the stock you start with, LOTS of hammering with a big hammer. Which I flat cannot do; after a couple of minutes that joint says "I don't want to anymore" and that's that. If I plan ahead and start taking naproxyn the day before I can get some done with no problem, but I dislike taking stuff like that long-term. Which is what it would take to do very much of it.
This is why I can't do some exercising either. Chris at Anarchangel has mentioned his joint problems, and that he has to eat naproxyn like candy to keep things working with a minimum of pain, and it affects how much exercise he can do. I used to do sets of twenty pushups; now I can get three at best before the elbow gives out, and weights or sword practice is equally touchy(though I can do light weights fairly well).
So I do plan to do more forging posts, but it will take a while to do much of it.
Which really sucks. The stuff I most like to make, namely blades, requires lots of hammering for the bigger ones. On some, depending on the stock you start with, LOTS of hammering with a big hammer. Which I flat cannot do; after a couple of minutes that joint says "I don't want to anymore" and that's that. If I plan ahead and start taking naproxyn the day before I can get some done with no problem, but I dislike taking stuff like that long-term. Which is what it would take to do very much of it.
This is why I can't do some exercising either. Chris at Anarchangel has mentioned his joint problems, and that he has to eat naproxyn like candy to keep things working with a minimum of pain, and it affects how much exercise he can do. I used to do sets of twenty pushups; now I can get three at best before the elbow gives out, and weights or sword practice is equally touchy(though I can do light weights fairly well).
So I do plan to do more forging posts, but it will take a while to do much of it.
Thursday, September 28, 2006
Carrying Condition One
Or, if you're more traditional, cocked & locked. Most specifically on the 1911-design pistols. I'd been thinking about this a while, and Kim posted this on it, linking to Tam.
If you're not familiar with these, you've got three carry modes:
3. Loaded magazine, chamber empty & hammer down
2. Loaded mag, chamber loaded, hammer on half-cock & safety on(on those pistols that allow it)
1. Loaded mag, chamber loaded, hammer cocked & safety on.
From what I've read, J.M. Browning designed the 1911 to be carried cocked & locked, and unless there's something mechanically wrong with a pistol, it's about as safe as you can get. Short of being unloaded.
On half-cock, in my opinion, NEVER!!! On some, you cannot carry that way, my Kimber for instance will not go on safety if the hammer's on half-cock. And the manual specifically states 'Do not', the design wasn't intended for that. The half-cock notch is supposed to be a safety notch; if the cocked hammer slips or gets jarred off the sear, this notch will catch it before it can strike the firing pin. Plus, there's a story.
There used to be a gentleman named Dan Combs who was firearms instructor for the OK Highway Patrol. Fine man, and one of the damndest shots you'd ever hope to see. One day he was at a range with a Colt Gold Cup match pistol doing some shooting. He fired a shot, put the hammer on half-cock and set the safety, stuck it in his belt(something, from what I've heard, he never did except this time) and reached for binoculars to check the target. And the hammer slipped off the sear and fired the pistol, which sent a 200 grain match bullet and a bunch of hot gasses into his abdomen. He lived through it, but hearing about this as a kid made me decide that when I got a .45(yeah, wanted one even then) I would not carry it that way. Turned out to be a defective sear or hammer notch, can't remember which; when he leaned forward it pushed the hammer forward a bit and... Later on this was reported to the commander at Vance Air Force Base and they had the post inventory of pistols checked; they found two that would do the same thing, for the same reason.
When I carry this pistol, it's cocked & locked for two reasons:
It's the safest way to carry, and
What if you don't have both hands free to charge it in time of trouble?
That last is the one that gives me shivers. There are drills for working the action with only one hand; generally intended for someone who's been injured or otherwise has only one hand available and has to clear a jam or misfeed or reload; they're not something I want to plan on doing when a situation happens. Accounts I've read & heard generally break down to you either have plenty of time to pick up/draw a weapon and ready it, or you have no time at all. In the latter, I damn sure don't want to have to try to fight off some clown with one hand while trying to work the slide with the other because I didn't have the piece charged.
The last reason some say carry Condition 3 is that, if you're attacked and have to shoot, some prosecutor could take the fact that you were cocked & locked as evidence that 'you were just waiting to shoot someone', or try to use that in court to show such bullshit. I agree it's a concern. I also think that if you're dealing with a prosecutor of such idiot mindset, it really doesn't matter how you were carrying, he'll try to use it against you. Hell, he'll try to use anything against you. I'd rather have to deal with that in a hearing than try to work the action one-handed when everything goes to hell.
If you're not familiar with these, you've got three carry modes:
3. Loaded magazine, chamber empty & hammer down
2. Loaded mag, chamber loaded, hammer on half-cock & safety on(on those pistols that allow it)
1. Loaded mag, chamber loaded, hammer cocked & safety on.
From what I've read, J.M. Browning designed the 1911 to be carried cocked & locked, and unless there's something mechanically wrong with a pistol, it's about as safe as you can get. Short of being unloaded.
On half-cock, in my opinion, NEVER!!! On some, you cannot carry that way, my Kimber for instance will not go on safety if the hammer's on half-cock. And the manual specifically states 'Do not', the design wasn't intended for that. The half-cock notch is supposed to be a safety notch; if the cocked hammer slips or gets jarred off the sear, this notch will catch it before it can strike the firing pin. Plus, there's a story.
There used to be a gentleman named Dan Combs who was firearms instructor for the OK Highway Patrol. Fine man, and one of the damndest shots you'd ever hope to see. One day he was at a range with a Colt Gold Cup match pistol doing some shooting. He fired a shot, put the hammer on half-cock and set the safety, stuck it in his belt(something, from what I've heard, he never did except this time) and reached for binoculars to check the target. And the hammer slipped off the sear and fired the pistol, which sent a 200 grain match bullet and a bunch of hot gasses into his abdomen. He lived through it, but hearing about this as a kid made me decide that when I got a .45(yeah, wanted one even then) I would not carry it that way. Turned out to be a defective sear or hammer notch, can't remember which; when he leaned forward it pushed the hammer forward a bit and... Later on this was reported to the commander at Vance Air Force Base and they had the post inventory of pistols checked; they found two that would do the same thing, for the same reason.
When I carry this pistol, it's cocked & locked for two reasons:
It's the safest way to carry, and
What if you don't have both hands free to charge it in time of trouble?
That last is the one that gives me shivers. There are drills for working the action with only one hand; generally intended for someone who's been injured or otherwise has only one hand available and has to clear a jam or misfeed or reload; they're not something I want to plan on doing when a situation happens. Accounts I've read & heard generally break down to you either have plenty of time to pick up/draw a weapon and ready it, or you have no time at all. In the latter, I damn sure don't want to have to try to fight off some clown with one hand while trying to work the slide with the other because I didn't have the piece charged.
The last reason some say carry Condition 3 is that, if you're attacked and have to shoot, some prosecutor could take the fact that you were cocked & locked as evidence that 'you were just waiting to shoot someone', or try to use that in court to show such bullshit. I agree it's a concern. I also think that if you're dealing with a prosecutor of such idiot mindset, it really doesn't matter how you were carrying, he'll try to use it against you. Hell, he'll try to use anything against you. I'd rather have to deal with that in a hearing than try to work the action one-handed when everything goes to hell.
That AZ 'memorial' to 9/11?
It seems the screaming and yelling has gotten some attention. As to whether the commission reviewing it will actually change some things or not(I hope it does), at least the people involved in that mess are feeling some heat, including the governor.
Wednesday, September 27, 2006
THIS I wasn't expecting
Couple of weeks ago SOG advertised they were getting in some M1 Carbine receivers at a pretty good price, so I called & asked some questions and ordered one. It came in yesterday.
Mostly it's what I did expect. They were advertised as 'very good' condition, and it is; the only marks other than to the finish are a couple of small dings on one edge of the rear sight dovetail. What was the surprise was the serial number; 9000(correction, my eyes are crossed or something; 90k series) series. Which makes it very early production. I'm not sure how early, I can't find a list anywhere indicating what serial numbers were produced in what year, but considering there were about 6.5 million of them produced in total, it's very early. Which is really cool.
It's the first time I've gotten hold of something like this, where I wondered whether to build it up or keep the thing because of possible collector value. I think I will go ahead and build it, and if I can do it without spending a fortune I'll try to use Inland parts as much as possible; only seems right for something like this.
Additional: I just talked to a guy locally who's something of a carbine expert. He advised me that unless I had an open line of credit, putting it together as a 'correct' Inland isn't a good idea and recited various prices to me. Yikes! Mixed parts it'll be.
Mostly it's what I did expect. They were advertised as 'very good' condition, and it is; the only marks other than to the finish are a couple of small dings on one edge of the rear sight dovetail. What was the surprise was the serial number; 9000(correction, my eyes are crossed or something; 90k series) series. Which makes it very early production. I'm not sure how early, I can't find a list anywhere indicating what serial numbers were produced in what year, but considering there were about 6.5 million of them produced in total, it's very early. Which is really cool.
It's the first time I've gotten hold of something like this, where I wondered whether to build it up or keep the thing because of possible collector value. I think I will go ahead and build it, and if I can do it without spending a fortune I'll try to use Inland parts as much as possible; only seems right for something like this.
Additional: I just talked to a guy locally who's something of a carbine expert. He advised me that unless I had an open line of credit, putting it together as a 'correct' Inland isn't a good idea and recited various prices to me. Yikes! Mixed parts it'll be.
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
"Foxes Given Keys To Henhouse,
Film at 11". Or something like that.
Saw this the other day, can't remember where I found the link:
POLICE have agreed to consult a panel of Muslim leaders before mounting counter-terrorist raids or arrests. Members of the panel will offer their assessment of whether information police have on a suspect is too flimsy and will also consider the consequences on community relations of a raid.
Yes, because we've seen how supportive 'Muslim leaders' are of the government grabbing terrorists and making raids, haven't we?
I don't know whether to call this political correctness taken to insane levels or just plain stupidity.
Members will be security vetted and will have to promise not to reveal any intelligence they are shown. They will not have to sign the Official Secrets Act.
'Cause they'd NEVER let word out, would they?
I'm sure there are people out there who think this is a good idea; I think they're either naive or, stupid or on the other side.
Saw this the other day, can't remember where I found the link:
POLICE have agreed to consult a panel of Muslim leaders before mounting counter-terrorist raids or arrests. Members of the panel will offer their assessment of whether information police have on a suspect is too flimsy and will also consider the consequences on community relations of a raid.
Yes, because we've seen how supportive 'Muslim leaders' are of the government grabbing terrorists and making raids, haven't we?
I don't know whether to call this political correctness taken to insane levels or just plain stupidity.
Members will be security vetted and will have to promise not to reveal any intelligence they are shown. They will not have to sign the Official Secrets Act.
'Cause they'd NEVER let word out, would they?
I'm sure there are people out there who think this is a good idea; I think they're either naive or, stupid or on the other side.
R.I.P, Col. Cooper
I first saw this late last night, Jeff Cooper has died.
I guess I actually did my remembrance the other day, and it covers it.
I guess I actually did my remembrance the other day, and it covers it.
Sunday, September 24, 2006
If you never saw how ordering a gun was in the 60's,
take a look at this and weep
These are pages from the January '65 issue of Guns & Ammo. It lists, among other things, a M1 Carbine in a new-made paratrooper stock for $99.95, with standard stock $89.95. M1 Garand for $77.99. An Enfield Jungle Carbine for $34.78, 1903-A3 Springfield or a 1903(High numbers only) for $39.78 with 120 rounds of ammo for $7.20 extra.
Let's see, there's a U.S. Model 1917 for $29.78, 98K Mauser for $32.95, a Walther P.38 for $39.95. And on, and on. And the worst part? You could mail-order them and they'd be delivered to you. Not to an FFL holder for some bloody paperwork, to you.
So thank you GFW politicians. Thank you, GFW nannies and socialists. Thank you so much for making it be assumed that anyone buying a gun is a criminal to be checked out.
Bastards.
Additional: James' comment showed me that I'd not said this as clearly as I should. I don't blame the GFWs for the price rises; inflation does hit on all things. It's the fact that instead of being able to order a firearm from a company, I HAVE to have a license and/or HAVE to have it shipped to a dealer to do the bloody paperwork. Because of the GFWs wanting to order a firearm is looked on as "You're up to something, and we have to check you out before you get permission(aye, there's the rub) to buy it". That's what I blame them for.
These are pages from the January '65 issue of Guns & Ammo. It lists, among other things, a M1 Carbine in a new-made paratrooper stock for $99.95, with standard stock $89.95. M1 Garand for $77.99. An Enfield Jungle Carbine for $34.78, 1903-A3 Springfield or a 1903(High numbers only) for $39.78 with 120 rounds of ammo for $7.20 extra.
Let's see, there's a U.S. Model 1917 for $29.78, 98K Mauser for $32.95, a Walther P.38 for $39.95. And on, and on. And the worst part? You could mail-order them and they'd be delivered to you. Not to an FFL holder for some bloody paperwork, to you.
So thank you GFW politicians. Thank you, GFW nannies and socialists. Thank you so much for making it be assumed that anyone buying a gun is a criminal to be checked out.
Bastards.
Additional: James' comment showed me that I'd not said this as clearly as I should. I don't blame the GFWs for the price rises; inflation does hit on all things. It's the fact that instead of being able to order a firearm from a company, I HAVE to have a license and/or HAVE to have it shipped to a dealer to do the bloody paperwork. Because of the GFWs wanting to order a firearm is looked on as "You're up to something, and we have to check you out before you get permission(aye, there's the rub) to buy it". That's what I blame them for.
Saturday, September 23, 2006
Col. Jeff Cooper in bad shape
At Random Nuclear Strikes found a link to this: "Jeff Cooper is in extremely grave condition at this hour. Previously hospitalized for possible surgery, he suffered a heart attack and was revived in the hospital. The heart muscle suffered serious damage. I hope you all can spare a moment of your day for him and his family in your thoughts and prayers...Rob"
I'd heard his health was failing, but didn't know about this. I've written about the man before, partly through disagreeing with something he wrote. Doesn't change that I have tremendous respect for him; he's truly been and done and has done a world of good for shooters of all stripes.
May it go well for him; he's damn well earned it.
I'd heard his health was failing, but didn't know about this. I've written about the man before, partly through disagreeing with something he wrote. Doesn't change that I have tremendous respect for him; he's truly been and done and has done a world of good for shooters of all stripes.
May it go well for him; he's damn well earned it.
Damn, I'd forgotten about these!
And a flea market/garage sale report
A couple of years ago my kids gave me this package, along with a couple of others, for Christmas, which is not only cool but covers parts of my "I would like" list:
Yes, the drum comes off the Thompson. Yes the bayonet comes off and fits in the sheath. The other packages have a Lebel, a #4 Mk1, a sporran, a 1873 Colt, an '03, cutlass, Fairbairn dagger, a kukri & sheath, a PPSH smg and some other stuff. I remember putting it away so I wouldn't lose it when I moved, and ran across it while organizing today.
Which brings up the report. Couple of weeks ago at the market found some books, today found a 2-drawer filing cabinet for $5(filling it involved the organizing). But the biggie is the garage sale, and I didn't find it; Dad did. He called me and said he'd found some stuff at a garage sale, and did I want it. Description followed, and I said yes! So I'm now the owner of the following:
Nice steel desk, small.
MEC progressive shotgun press.
Somewhere between 500 and 1k wads.
About a dozen charge bars.
Two bricks of primers.
About 25 lbs. each of #6, 7.5 and 8 shot
About 4 lbs of powders.
And some assorted parts and pieces.
And you're just gonna love this: $75.
So now I have to learn how to use this, which is pretty straightforward, except for the primer feed. You advance the cases manually, and there's a feeder that's supposed to drop the primer in place. I can put in in place on the press, but I flat cannot figure out how to connect the chain that pulls the arm that drops the primer into the tube.
Screw more organizing for now, I'm going to go buy a bag of buckshot and see if I can find a load for them.
A couple of years ago my kids gave me this package, along with a couple of others, for Christmas, which is not only cool but covers parts of my "I would like" list:
Yes, the drum comes off the Thompson. Yes the bayonet comes off and fits in the sheath. The other packages have a Lebel, a #4 Mk1, a sporran, a 1873 Colt, an '03, cutlass, Fairbairn dagger, a kukri & sheath, a PPSH smg and some other stuff. I remember putting it away so I wouldn't lose it when I moved, and ran across it while organizing today.
Which brings up the report. Couple of weeks ago at the market found some books, today found a 2-drawer filing cabinet for $5(filling it involved the organizing). But the biggie is the garage sale, and I didn't find it; Dad did. He called me and said he'd found some stuff at a garage sale, and did I want it. Description followed, and I said yes! So I'm now the owner of the following:
Nice steel desk, small.
MEC progressive shotgun press.
Somewhere between 500 and 1k wads.
About a dozen charge bars.
Two bricks of primers.
About 25 lbs. each of #6, 7.5 and 8 shot
About 4 lbs of powders.
And some assorted parts and pieces.
And you're just gonna love this: $75.
So now I have to learn how to use this, which is pretty straightforward, except for the primer feed. You advance the cases manually, and there's a feeder that's supposed to drop the primer in place. I can put in in place on the press, but I flat cannot figure out how to connect the chain that pulls the arm that drops the primer into the tube.
Screw more organizing for now, I'm going to go buy a bag of buckshot and see if I can find a load for them.
Just some general notes
The North Carolina 'justice' system needs an overhaul. And a bunch of members need a barbed wire enema from the sound of it.
Mayor Bloomberg(Dumbass-Socialist-D) just can't stand the idea of not controlling peoples' lives.
Why so many Jews still hew to the Democrat party is a mystery.
And the people running the Air Marshall program are, by the evidence, still idiots.
Mayor Bloomberg(Dumbass-Socialist-D) just can't stand the idea of not controlling peoples' lives.
Why so many Jews still hew to the Democrat party is a mystery.
And the people running the Air Marshall program are, by the evidence, still idiots.
Friday, September 22, 2006
Crowning
Gun barrels, that is.
The crown is the very end of the barrel where the rifling ends. It's the last place where the barrel affects the bullet, and if damaged accuracy tends to go to hell. Even tiny burrs or dents where the rifling ends can either damage the bullet slightly or let gas leak out at that spot, throwing the bullet off-balance by just a fraction.
Yes, this is one of my patented, "you can do it yourself but don't yell at me if it don't work" posts. Cleaning up the crown is actually fairly simple, and can be done without a lathe or other fancy(read 'expensive') tooling.
The most basic is you find that, after being dropped, the crown has a little ding in the corner of the bore. Or you find that someone cleaning from the muzzle(and some rifles and pistols have to be) let a steel rod ding the crown. Assuming that's all you have to repair, you've got two ways.
There are cutters made just for this, like this one from Brownell's:
It's a tool steel body with a handle that screws on. Pilots are made for different bore diameters and held in place with a set screw. They make one that's about 3/4" wide and square, for making sure a newly-cut muzzle is true, and a couple of smaller diameter ones with the cutting flutes at different angles, depending on what crown you want. This one is 79 degrees, and that's a .311 pilot for a .303 British rifle. The first step with either of the methods I'm using is make sure the damn gun is unloaded; it'll really, REALLY ruin your day/week/life if it's not and it fires while you're doing this. Then put a tight patch on a cleaning jag and run it up to about 2" below the bore with this cutter and leave it there. With a clean-from-the-muzzle arm, I run the jag in the appropriate amount, then unscrew the rod from it; in either case it'll keep shavings, cutting oil, whatever from falling down the bore and into the action.
With this cutter/guide setup, use a small paintbrush to coat the cutting flutes and crown with oil, actual cutting oil being the best but just plain oil will do, it helps the cutter turn and cut smoothly. Ease the pilot in until the flutes contact the crown and then, with light, even pressure turn it. ALWAYS CLOCKWISE. If you turn it in reverse it can cause a burr to be rolled up on the cutting edge which pretty much ruins it until it can be honed to remove it. Turn it two turns, then take it out. Wipe off the shavings from both pieces and inspect. If you need to cut a bit deeper, oil and repeat.
When this is done, you may be able to use it as is, but you'll generally need to polish the new crown to get rid of the tiny burrs the cutter leaves. Which brings me to the next method, which can be used all by itself to clean up a crown. This high-tech method is
Yep, that's a round-head screw in a drill. Brownell's makes a brass piece just for this, or you can use a small carriage bolt(make sure the head is smooth) or round-head machine screw of steel or brass. I read of one gunsmith who takes steel ball bearings, anneals them, drills a hole in and solders in a piece of drill rod for a shank; he thinks the hard ball works better than a softer metal. Some swear by one with a screwdriver slot, as it'll hold some of the abrasive. They all work, as long as the curve of the head fits into the muzzle properly; small enough diameter & curve to contact the crown, large enough to not be able to slip into the bore. Power can be a cordless drill like this- as long as it is variable speed- or a crank-type hand drill. And you'll need some abrasive compound. I'm using some valve-grinding paste from a tool or auto parts store, this kind comes in a two-sided can with one side coarse and one fine. I've never needed any but the fine stuff.
If you're polishing after using a cutter, pull/push the patch out to clean oil & shavings out of the bore, clean it out then put in a fresh patch. If just using this method, put your patch in. Secure the gun or barrel so it's vertical. Dip the head of the screw or whatever into the compound. Gently set it into the crown and start it turning slowly. I repeat, SLOWLY. You'll be able to feel the compound grinding at first; when you stop feeling that, remove and dip the head again.
No, it's not vertical here; I'm holding with one hand and shooting with the other, so shut up.
Don't just hold the drill vertically, after the first bit start moving the drill in a small circle. After the second time I coat the head I put it in reverse and continue for a minute. The idea is to make sure the cutting occurs evenly around the crown and polishes both sides of the lands and grooves to get rid of any burrs or roughness.
Take your time. After running it both ways, set the rig aside and clean the crown off and inspect it. I use some cotton swabs, put the end in the bore, preferably without touching the compound, and use it to swab the stuff out of the bore. When it's done you'll have a clean, bright ring where the rifling ends, nice and smooth. Use a bright light and a magnifier of some kind to check it out. Remember, if you just had some small dings or a touch of wear it may only take a minute or two of this to completely remove the damaged section, so check often.
When it's done to your satisfaction, use more swabs and patches to wipe off all the compound you can, then pull the patch out to remove anything it caught. Clean the bore thoroughly to make sure you don't leave any trace of the abrasive, and oil. The mechanical part is done.
At this point you can use a bit of cold blue to get rid of the shine, or leave it as is and the next shooting you do will take care of most of that.
That's pretty much it for the basic crowning. The Serious Recrowning would be with, for instance, an old military rifle that was often cleaned without a guide, and the rifling for the last inch or two of the bore may be ruined. The only fixes for that are to either counterbore- basically cutting a cone out of the bore from the muzzle back for a couple of inches, lathe required- or cut an inch or two off the barrel and recrown. Which would ruin it as far as collectibility and authenticity and require putting the front sight back on. If you've got one like that you'll have to decide what you want to do.
Years ago I bought an old Turkish Mauser to turn into a hunting rifle. When I first shot it the best groups it would get were about 6-8" at 100 yards. I cut the barrel off right in front of the front sight, which only removed about 1/2", squared and crowned it and with the same ammo groups shrunk by half. In the end I took five inches off that 29" barrel, which removed all the damaged bore and that rifle will shoot 1" groups or a touch better, depending on ammo and if I'm doing my part that day.
This is one of those "It's simple, but it has to be done right" things. Most gunsmiths don't charge too much to cut & crown a barrel, so if you're worried about keeping things square that may be the way to go. If all you need to do is clean up or recut the crown itself, it is something you can do.
The crown is the very end of the barrel where the rifling ends. It's the last place where the barrel affects the bullet, and if damaged accuracy tends to go to hell. Even tiny burrs or dents where the rifling ends can either damage the bullet slightly or let gas leak out at that spot, throwing the bullet off-balance by just a fraction.
Yes, this is one of my patented, "you can do it yourself but don't yell at me if it don't work" posts. Cleaning up the crown is actually fairly simple, and can be done without a lathe or other fancy(read 'expensive') tooling.
The most basic is you find that, after being dropped, the crown has a little ding in the corner of the bore. Or you find that someone cleaning from the muzzle(and some rifles and pistols have to be) let a steel rod ding the crown. Assuming that's all you have to repair, you've got two ways.
There are cutters made just for this, like this one from Brownell's:
It's a tool steel body with a handle that screws on. Pilots are made for different bore diameters and held in place with a set screw. They make one that's about 3/4" wide and square, for making sure a newly-cut muzzle is true, and a couple of smaller diameter ones with the cutting flutes at different angles, depending on what crown you want. This one is 79 degrees, and that's a .311 pilot for a .303 British rifle. The first step with either of the methods I'm using is make sure the damn gun is unloaded; it'll really, REALLY ruin your day/week/life if it's not and it fires while you're doing this. Then put a tight patch on a cleaning jag and run it up to about 2" below the bore with this cutter and leave it there. With a clean-from-the-muzzle arm, I run the jag in the appropriate amount, then unscrew the rod from it; in either case it'll keep shavings, cutting oil, whatever from falling down the bore and into the action.
With this cutter/guide setup, use a small paintbrush to coat the cutting flutes and crown with oil, actual cutting oil being the best but just plain oil will do, it helps the cutter turn and cut smoothly. Ease the pilot in until the flutes contact the crown and then, with light, even pressure turn it. ALWAYS CLOCKWISE. If you turn it in reverse it can cause a burr to be rolled up on the cutting edge which pretty much ruins it until it can be honed to remove it. Turn it two turns, then take it out. Wipe off the shavings from both pieces and inspect. If you need to cut a bit deeper, oil and repeat.
When this is done, you may be able to use it as is, but you'll generally need to polish the new crown to get rid of the tiny burrs the cutter leaves. Which brings me to the next method, which can be used all by itself to clean up a crown. This high-tech method is
Yep, that's a round-head screw in a drill. Brownell's makes a brass piece just for this, or you can use a small carriage bolt(make sure the head is smooth) or round-head machine screw of steel or brass. I read of one gunsmith who takes steel ball bearings, anneals them, drills a hole in and solders in a piece of drill rod for a shank; he thinks the hard ball works better than a softer metal. Some swear by one with a screwdriver slot, as it'll hold some of the abrasive. They all work, as long as the curve of the head fits into the muzzle properly; small enough diameter & curve to contact the crown, large enough to not be able to slip into the bore. Power can be a cordless drill like this- as long as it is variable speed- or a crank-type hand drill. And you'll need some abrasive compound. I'm using some valve-grinding paste from a tool or auto parts store, this kind comes in a two-sided can with one side coarse and one fine. I've never needed any but the fine stuff.
If you're polishing after using a cutter, pull/push the patch out to clean oil & shavings out of the bore, clean it out then put in a fresh patch. If just using this method, put your patch in. Secure the gun or barrel so it's vertical. Dip the head of the screw or whatever into the compound. Gently set it into the crown and start it turning slowly. I repeat, SLOWLY. You'll be able to feel the compound grinding at first; when you stop feeling that, remove and dip the head again.
No, it's not vertical here; I'm holding with one hand and shooting with the other, so shut up.
Don't just hold the drill vertically, after the first bit start moving the drill in a small circle. After the second time I coat the head I put it in reverse and continue for a minute. The idea is to make sure the cutting occurs evenly around the crown and polishes both sides of the lands and grooves to get rid of any burrs or roughness.
Take your time. After running it both ways, set the rig aside and clean the crown off and inspect it. I use some cotton swabs, put the end in the bore, preferably without touching the compound, and use it to swab the stuff out of the bore. When it's done you'll have a clean, bright ring where the rifling ends, nice and smooth. Use a bright light and a magnifier of some kind to check it out. Remember, if you just had some small dings or a touch of wear it may only take a minute or two of this to completely remove the damaged section, so check often.
When it's done to your satisfaction, use more swabs and patches to wipe off all the compound you can, then pull the patch out to remove anything it caught. Clean the bore thoroughly to make sure you don't leave any trace of the abrasive, and oil. The mechanical part is done.
At this point you can use a bit of cold blue to get rid of the shine, or leave it as is and the next shooting you do will take care of most of that.
That's pretty much it for the basic crowning. The Serious Recrowning would be with, for instance, an old military rifle that was often cleaned without a guide, and the rifling for the last inch or two of the bore may be ruined. The only fixes for that are to either counterbore- basically cutting a cone out of the bore from the muzzle back for a couple of inches, lathe required- or cut an inch or two off the barrel and recrown. Which would ruin it as far as collectibility and authenticity and require putting the front sight back on. If you've got one like that you'll have to decide what you want to do.
Years ago I bought an old Turkish Mauser to turn into a hunting rifle. When I first shot it the best groups it would get were about 6-8" at 100 yards. I cut the barrel off right in front of the front sight, which only removed about 1/2", squared and crowned it and with the same ammo groups shrunk by half. In the end I took five inches off that 29" barrel, which removed all the damaged bore and that rifle will shoot 1" groups or a touch better, depending on ammo and if I'm doing my part that day.
This is one of those "It's simple, but it has to be done right" things. Most gunsmiths don't charge too much to cut & crown a barrel, so if you're worried about keeping things square that may be the way to go. If all you need to do is clean up or recut the crown itself, it is something you can do.
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