Well, slight problem: it wouldn't reliably fire, just not enough energy to make the primers go.
Well, crap. I wrote to them, and got a number: "Please call our tech staff for assistance." Which at the time was a low priority with the other stuff going on. Which, since that's eased off some, I finally remembered, looked up the number and called them.
Soon as I described the problem the tech asked for the make and model, then said 'The only time we've had this problem has been on 'X' model S&W, but here's what we'll do."
If you're not familiar with the S&W revolvers, especially older ones with leaf mainsprings, in the front of the grip frame, near the bottom, is a piece called a strain screw. You install the hammer spring(it hooks to the trigger using a split end on that end, and the other end has what I call a hook that fits into a slot), then tighten that screw to flex the spring and load it. They make a extra-long strain screw that can load the spring more than the standard, and sent me one. No charge.
It came in fast enough to ease my "Where is it?", and I got to work. The piece fit right in, and worked, but the trigger wouldn't reliably slide forward after being pulled. Took things back down, put in the next heavier trigger slide spring, and voila! It worked! Definitely lighter and smoother than the factory springs, so the next day took it to the range.
Soon as I described the problem the tech asked for the make and model, then said 'The only time we've had this problem has been on 'X' model S&W, but here's what we'll do."
If you're not familiar with the S&W revolvers, especially older ones with leaf mainsprings, in the front of the grip frame, near the bottom, is a piece called a strain screw. You install the hammer spring(it hooks to the trigger using a split end on that end, and the other end has what I call a hook that fits into a slot), then tighten that screw to flex the spring and load it. They make a extra-long strain screw that can load the spring more than the standard, and sent me one. No charge.
It came in fast enough to ease my "Where is it?", and I got to work. The piece fit right in, and worked, but the trigger wouldn't reliably slide forward after being pulled. Took things back down, put in the next heavier trigger slide spring, and voila! It worked! Definitely lighter and smoother than the factory springs, so the next day took it to the range.
Success is mine, everything cycled as should and plenty of punch to fire the primers.* Trigger is heavier than with the original screw, but very nice(and it works!).
And now, once I have some time(things are better but still busy), I need to load some ammo for it.
*The shooters pack I chose came with a reduced-power mainspring, which turned out to be a bit too for this revolver. I got a lot of "I've used their stuff, and it's great!" from a lot of people, none of them hat this problem. I, however, have to be unique.
3 comments:
I used some Wolff springs on a Taurus 922 many years ago and was happy with the results. It’s nice when you get good customer service.
Ed
+1 for Wolff. I have used their springs for M1 carbines, M1 Garands, Hungarian PA-63's, to name a few. I have never had to call for tech support. I have occasionally had to shorten some of their "extra power" springs.
On my S&W M67, I cut about 1.5 coils off the trigger return spring, then backed of the strain screw on the stock leaf main spring.
Just passing this along. I have a Ruger MKI pistol that I bought new 1975. Not long ago, I noticed that the there was metal on metal impact as the bolt began bashing into the rear take down pin. Time to replace the recoil spring. Volquartsen to the rescue. Although the MKI is not specifically listed, these springs work just fine--
https://volquartsen.com/departments/internal-parts-for-ruger-mkii-mkiii/inventory_configurations/1086
All my stuff gets Wolffs, the moment the factory springs begin to show any softening. Not a single regret.
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