I'm there, too. Actually two different ones. One is .32 rimfire and the other is .38 rimfire. Started trying to convert some .38 S&W brass yesterday to take a .27 rimfire nailgun blank as the primer/charge. Ordered some .375 diameter heel bullets for it the other day. We shall see...........
So far I think that the concept is sound for the .38 rimfire, but I encountered a small problem. The primer pocket needs to be drilled straight through the base to accommodate the .27 blank. A 17/64"(.266) drill is the same diameter as the blank, but it takes just a smidge too much metal off and leaves the primer loose. No sweat. I just ordered a 6.7mm (.264) and a G (.261) bit. One or the other should work. The hole also needs to be counterbored about half the thickness of the primer rim to leave clearance for the cylinder of the gun to rotate. It works okay using a 21/64" drill bit as a countersink, but I'd prefer a flat, counterbored bottom of the hole, so I also have a 21/64" flat nosed end mill on order. The reason that I'm using .38 S&W cases is because of the length. Someone gave me a bunch of them a while back. Figured that it would be easier than cutting down .38 Special brass. I just sized them to the correct diameter in a .38/.357 die. Not sure if I'll have to chuck them up and trim the bases a bit. I haven't received the gun yet to see if they'll fit. It's a minty H&R Bulldog .38 Rimfire made sometime between 1905 and 1923. More info to come whenever I get all my tools. Baby steps..........
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I'm there, too. Actually two different ones. One is .32 rimfire and the other is .38 rimfire. Started trying to convert some .38 S&W brass yesterday to take a .27 rimfire nailgun blank as the primer/charge. Ordered some .375 diameter heel bullets for it the other day. We shall see...........
Progress reports, please
So far I think that the concept is sound for the .38 rimfire, but I encountered a small problem. The primer pocket needs to be drilled straight through the base to accommodate the .27 blank. A 17/64"(.266) drill is the same diameter as the blank, but it takes just a smidge too much metal off and leaves the primer loose. No sweat. I just ordered a 6.7mm (.264) and a G (.261) bit. One or the other should work. The hole also needs to be counterbored about half the thickness of the primer rim to leave clearance for the cylinder of the gun to rotate. It works okay using a 21/64" drill bit as a countersink, but I'd prefer a flat, counterbored bottom of the hole, so I also have a 21/64" flat nosed end mill on order. The reason that I'm using .38 S&W cases is because of the length. Someone gave me a bunch of them a while back. Figured that it would be easier than cutting down .38 Special brass. I just sized them to the correct diameter in a .38/.357 die. Not sure if I'll have to chuck them up and trim the bases a bit. I haven't received the gun yet to see if they'll fit. It's a minty H&R Bulldog .38 Rimfire made sometime between 1905 and 1923. More info to come whenever I get all my tools. Baby steps..........
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