Monday, November 30, 2020

Why not complicate the matter?

I've been annealing the .45-70 brass case mouths regularly.  The process has been to use a suitable size socket with a hex drive adapter to spin the case in the flame from a propane torch.  The one problem has been that the socket tends to make the case bounce around a bit.  So I present the solution:
 
Son had a piece of round aluminum bar stock of suitable size.  Drill one end 9/32", then turn it down a bit on that end to reduce weight.  Then drill the other end 5/8".  The 9/32" is a snug slip-fit for a sacrificed hex screwdriver bit to fit in the cordless driver, which is stuck in with JB Weld.  Break & polish the mouth of the hole so it can't scratch the cases(I know, it's softer than the brass, I don't care).

Just in case anyone wants details: Some experimenting with a Tempilstick and the torch showed that about five seconds with a flame about 1" long aimed about 1/3" from the mouth as the case spins does a nice job of annealing.  Tip it to drop it in water to cool and drop in the next one.
 
 

4 comments:

John in Philly said...

I spent a few moments on the Practical Machinst forum looking for a definitive answer on whether or not rapid cooling of cartridge brass is a good idea or a bad idea.
Based on the answers, it's a good idea, it's a bad idea. It might be a good idea or a bad idea.

If it's working for you, don't change what you are doing.

EGGBONE said...

I use 2" socket for all calibers from cheap Chinese socket set. Helps keep lower 2/3 of cases cooler as to not overheat. Point of note: Not really necessary to quench.












Andy said...

Probably something out there you could have paid for but what would be the fun for the lesson in that? Someone probably shaking their head saying why not just use a pair of pliers to hold the case? Again, where is the fun and plier jaws will mark up the cases, so stop shaking your heads people.

Good work around.

Andy

Firehand said...

After a bunch of reading on black powder cartridges, it seems that regular annealing is generally agreed to keep neck tension at about the same level, which can help accuracy. So why not?

I like quenching because it cools the case off quickly, from what I've read it's not required. And does prevent any chance of heat being able to get farther down than I want.